| Author |
Message |
    
Lane Summers
Member
Username: Summers420us
VA
Registered: 11-2005
Post Number: 7
| | Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2005 - 12:43 pm: | 
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My 212 steers very sloppily. Almost a 1/4 turn before you begin to turn the wheels. What do I need to replace/adjust? |
Edward H. Lincoln
Member
Username: Ed_lincoln
Wa.
Registered: 7-2003
Post Number: 523
| | Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2005 - 7:27 pm: |
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you need to adjust the stud in the side of the steering box under the tractor,it has a straight screw driver slot in it. If you turn it 90 deg. it should remove most of the slop. It has a grease fitting under there also. Check for worn out tie-rod ends also. |
Kevin Amstutz
Member
Username: Kevinamstutz
MI
Registered: 8-2005
Post Number: 102
| | Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2005 - 9:33 pm: |
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I had slop in mine too. I wound up replacing the tie rod ends and going through the steering box. What you will probably find is that the adjustment screw Ed talks about is worn where it has contacted the worm gear inside. When you are done adjusting the screw, make sure that there is no binding of any kind when you steer the steering wheel all the way left and right. If there is binding, back the screw out in very small amounts until the binding stops. That should take care of the slop. Kevin |
Mark A. Miller
Member
Username: Monkey_business
IL
Registered: 6-2005
Post Number: 275
| | Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 2:53 am: |
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Helps to jack up the front when doing this, makes it easier to "feel" for binding vs slop when adjusting. Mark |
Lane Summers
Member
Username: Summers420us
VA
Registered: 11-2005
Post Number: 11
| | Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 5:39 am: |
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I looked for the stud that Edward was referring to and I think I found it (by feel only, I can't quite see it). But it seems difficult to access.
Do I have to remove the rear fender pan just to get to it or is there a trick?
Tie rod ends seem to be in great shape and may have been replaced by previous owner because they look rather new. |
Francis Kozlovsky Sr.
Member
Username: Trainstractors
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 564
| | Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 8:48 am: |
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Lane I remove the mower deck or the battery and battery box. |
Kevin Amstutz
Member
Username: Kevinamstutz
MI
Registered: 8-2005
Post Number: 115
| | Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 5:11 pm: |
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I agree. You will has a lot less frustration removing some parts than trying to fight it and leaving parts on. Removing the battery tray is easy and you can see so much better. It also helps to drain the fuel out and tip the tractor to the right and have a GOOD friend hold it while you make the adjustment. Kevin |
Edward H. Lincoln
Member
Username: Ed_lincoln
Wa.
Registered: 7-2003
Post Number: 527
| | Posted on Monday, November 07, 2005 - 8:04 pm: |
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That screw (with the straight slot) has a jamb nut. I have a set of those cheap metal ramps to run the tractors up on. The screw is in the side of the plate, that moves back and forth with the tie-rod (drag link) connected to it. Best worked on from the under side of the tractor unless its a 140.
When I work on a steering box I remove it from the tractor, clean it out, repack it with grease, replace the worn nylon bushing under the steering wheel, and adjust the plug in the bottom as well. |
Lane Summers
Member
Username: Summers420us
VA
Registered: 11-2005
Post Number: 13
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2005 - 11:41 am: |
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Thank you. I am going to mess with this over the weekend. |
