| Author |
Message |
    
William DeTurck
Member
Username: Yellow_fever
PA
Registered: 9-2006
Post Number: 3
| | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 8:23 am: | 
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I am starting a new thread. I had posted the picture of the idler spring which was identified and after a struggle and tearing the tractor half apart I found the hole for the spring in the frame. I have large hands and couldn't get the spring hooked on the hole till I took the Variator spring out of the way. Real struggle to get it back on by myself. I need to know how to adjust the Variator as I can't get a hold of the owner who has the manuals. I did a search on this forum and it didn't come up. Can someone tell me where to go or post it so I can get this 214 back together. Thanks |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 934
| | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 11:57 am: |
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William I have a cut and paste at home. I will post it tonight if someone doesn't do it first. It takes less time to do than to write it out. Roger |
William DeTurck
Member
Username: Yellow_fever
PA
Registered: 9-2006
Post Number: 4
| | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 6:03 pm: |
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Thanks Roger. I bet there is one on this forum but no one booksmarks pages like that. |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 936
| | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 6:54 pm: |
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Place the variator in the 5th notch from the back or the 3rd notch from the front of the tractor. Under the variator lever on the right side of the tractor a two metal plugs. Pry out these plugs. Under one of the plugs is a bolt that takes a 3/4 socket wrench to loosen. Loosen the nut one or two turns. Disconnect the spark plug wire and then crank the engine until the left/clutch pedal raises all the way. Turn off the ignition key. Put the socket back on the bolt and while pushing down on it tighten the nut. Replace the plugs. Replace the plug wire. You should now have variator movement in the first five notches. The last two are for belt stretch. Roger |
Craig Welly
Member
Username: Cjwelly
IN
Registered: 3-2005
Post Number: 22
| | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 9:27 pm: |
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William,
I have used Roger's post in the past for variator adjustment on my 110. It works very well. Thanks Roger!
Craig Welly |
William DeTurck
Member
Username: Yellow_fever
PA
Registered: 9-2006
Post Number: 5
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 9:17 am: |
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I got the 214 tractor back together enough to drive it. I don't understand the variator instructions. I have 2 bolts I can turn with a 3/4" socket. I have only loosened the rear one that is easier to see and my clutch pedal is always up unless I push it way down and jumps over(I don't have the fender pan on). The variator lever will only move into the front 2 holes. It feels like it hits something solid(can't see up there good enough to really see. I don't understand pushing down on it(what is it?) tighten nut(I didn't loosen a nut?). The tractor seems to go in all gears but a little slower than what normal might be. The drive belt is deep in the drive pulley and the output belt is almost to the top of that pulley. Help and thanks) |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 937
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 9:48 am: |
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William without touching the tractor I can not tell you exactly what is wrong. The variator lever should move easily into any of the positions with the motor running. It is possible the sliding center part of it is stuck or the bearing in it is worn out and its getting cocked and will not move. Should be only one bolt/nut behind those covers. One cover is for the adjustment and one is for taking a shaft out if you are rebuilding it. The nut/bolt is on a link that is slotted to allow for adjustment. The only way to see if the variator is stuck is to take both drive belts off of it. With them off you should be able to slide the center sheave of the variator easily back and forth (right to left). If you do not have JD belts on the tractor it is never going to work. You have to do the adjustment in exactly the order described above. Also while I think of it if either of the springs has been replaced with a non JD spring it probably will never work right. Other things that I can think of would be one of the shafts that run it could be binding. I had one of my 110 RFs that had this problem and it turned out an animal was storing acorns in the tractor and they were blocking the variator movement. Roger |
William DeTurck
Member
Username: Yellow_fever
PA
Registered: 9-2006
Post Number: 6
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 12:02 pm: |
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Roger H.: I think the indexing pin that is suppose to be inside the handle jumped to the out side and is binding the V. shifter. This is binding up the variator so it won't adjust. I was going to take a picture but it started to shower. I got the varator handle to move and the belt tensioner pulley is moving up and down and looks like the varaitor is working. I am going to drive it again and see if it is working. I hope I don't have to take the shifting handle off! Be back in a little bit |
William DeTurck
Member
Username: Yellow_fever
PA
Registered: 9-2006
Post Number: 7
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 12:31 pm: |
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I'm back and got pictures of the handle.
The push button doesnt really work. I can move the handle to the different positions and the wire goes in the indexing.
The variator is working as I go slow with the leaver in second picture and fast with the lever in first picture. I know it isn't adjusted quite right but it didn't work at all when I put the JD belts on it last year. The springs are the correct ones.
(Message edited by yellow_fever on September 29, 2006) |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 938
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 12:53 pm: |
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The knob on the top screws off like the knob on a CC lift handle. Under that is a spring as in a CC lift handle. I suspect that the spring is gone or broken. Roger |
Joseph Unger
Member
Username: Asymair95
MD
Registered: 7-2005
Post Number: 147
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 1:30 pm: |
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William,
I have pictures of this assy in my "214 project continued" post on this forum. Hope they can help you out. I had the same exact thing happen to me. To do it right you really need to disassemble the entire handle. Remove the roll pin that holds the handle on. The handle piece is nothing more than threaded pipe. It will unscrew out of the base. Once the handle is off you will be able to check the spring tension, check for rust, and adjust/bend the lift handle so it will contact the notches nice and flush. Then just put it back together and install. Getting the roll pin back in is a PITA and an extra set of hands helps. Hope this helps you out. Joe
This is the bolt you need to push and tighten. You can see from this pic the slotted area Roger was talking about. Good luck. |
William DeTurck
Member
Username: Yellow_fever
PA
Registered: 9-2006
Post Number: 8
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 2:08 pm: |
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Roger & Joe: I got the push-button loose with a pipe wrench. I then found a punch that was smaller than the roll pin pin and drove it out. The wire was bent that it wouldn't go in to the slot and I pushed the spring down and was able to bend it straight with a screwdriver off the handle it self(it actually twisted inside the handle and easy to take the twist out. I had wondered why it had a hole in the bottom but you can push the spring up and get the handle started back on the shaft. You actually don't have to take any of the top apart. Making sure I was in the correct notch to match the hole and put the old pin back in. It moves through all the positions easily now.
I was using the wrong bolt and now I got it close. Do you push on the bolt from the inside when you tighten it? I want to recheck it when I get the fender pan back on to make sure I have enough clutch travel before I hit the foot rest.
One more question. I have trouble with the neutral switch and have a hard time finding the correct location on the gear shift to turn the starter. Where is the neutral switch and the PTO on switch(that seems to have to be bumped sometimes to get it to start? Thanks for the great help.
It moved slower in every notch while I was running around sitting on the gas tank. Last year when I put the belts on it would quit moving in the last 3 notches(I did get the center sheave freed up and I could see that it was rusted) |
Joseph Unger
Member
Username: Asymair95
MD
Registered: 7-2005
Post Number: 151
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 2:20 pm: |
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Here is the neutral switch
This is where the PTO switch is. I think depending on the year of your tractor you may have 1 switch here or 2.
Joe |
Brad L.
Member
Username: Nittanyjd
PA
Registered: 12-2006
Post Number: 6
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 5:25 pm: |
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I need some help with the adjustment of the variator. Everything was working properly with the old belts, but they needed replaced so I replaced both no problems. There is some great advice and instructions on here and I have tried them all, but the variator is still not working properly.
Everything was working ok with the old belts and everything is free so not certain what has happened. My problem is when I put the lever in the correct slot and make the adjustment the lever is free when I move it ahead and there is no resistance whatsoever, but when I pull it back the clutch pedal goes down. I can't seem to get the right combination and get any resistance on the lever. It acts like something isn't free but I've checked everything and oil it and all parts are moving and free as far as I can tell. I wouldn't think it would work and then get stuck but I've triple checked all that.
Is there anyway to start over with the adjustment? Do I need to remove belts to reset something? One thing I noticed when making the initial adjustment was the clutch pedal was already back and not depressed so maybe I messed with the adjustment and shouldn’t have. I'm confused and hopefully this message isn't. Hate to run it to a dealer (cha-ching) but may have to. |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 1436
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 6:54 pm: |
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Brad that is what it is supposed to do. The last two notches are there for belt wear and should have no variator movement. The variator is just a stop for the clutch pedal. When you pull the variator back it lowers the clutch pedal and you go slower. It acts the same as if you were putting the clutch in. Roger |
Brad L.
Member
Username: Nittanyjd
PA
Registered: 12-2006
Post Number: 7
| | Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 6:22 am: |
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Roger - thanks. That makes sense and that part of it is working. Its when I move the lever forward where it is very free and tractor ground speed never changes. One time I had to pull the clutch pedal back with my foot to increase the speed as a previous poster mentioned and the next time it was already back and tractor never changed speed no matter what position I had it in. It acts like its trying, but not quite there. Wondering if the new belts are hanging it up some how. |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 1439
| | Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 7:46 am: |
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There are two springs on the variator system that make it operate. One or the other is is either stretched, broken or unhitched, There is also a big eye bolt that adjusts one of the springs and the can be tightened for faster response. Go to your local dealer and ask if you can look at a tech manual or JD Parts and view what the system looks like. Roger |
Brad L.
Member
Username: Nittanyjd
PA
Registered: 12-2006
Post Number: 8
| | Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 12:31 pm: |
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OK Its close to working correctly now. Works like a charm going down a grade not so good upgrade and pulling anything. Also shifting to 3rd isn't too smooth and wants to pop a wheelie. Anyway I'll get it ironed out and thanks for all the help Roger! |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 1440
| | Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 1:19 pm: |
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It is supposed to shift down ( pedal moves down) when you go up hill. The idea is to keep the engine RPMs constant and not to worry about ground speed. Roger |
Jeff Sarsons
Member
Username: Sauc_fixer
British Columbia
Registered: 5-2008
Post Number: 1
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 1:46 pm: |
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This info has/is excellent. Our South Arm United Church JD 214 is doing the same thing(s). Great help.
Thanks
Jeff |
Jeff Sarsons
Member
Username: Sauc_fixer
British Columbia
Registered: 5-2008
Post Number: 2
| | Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 12:11 pm: |
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Good Morning Everyone
Our South Arm United Church has a older model 214 donated by my Dad. It was pretty badily abused by my brothers family. I've been able to get it working quite well with a lot of help from my JD Dealear in Abbotsford & Langley BC.
My current problem is dealing with the variator adjustment. I've followed all procedures as per the manual and just changed the belts yesterday but I am still having a problem.
I can use the JD for about 2 hours (takes 8 hours to do all the lawns every 5 days)then it starts to slow down and/or stop. I can usually get it going again by first changing into another gear to get it to move and ultimately, usually with a lot of patience, move the selector arm to a higher notch and running the JD in a lower gear.
It is my feeling that the variator is worn out. I've cleaned but the sleeve will not move smoothly across the spline if un-even pressure is applied to the outer rim.
A second issue is that I need a model/part number for the smaller of the two idler pulleys that are directly below the PTO pulley. We, the JD Dealer and myself (I have on line access to their parts manuals) cannot find a part number.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jeff Sarsons |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 2398
| | Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 4:36 pm: |
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Jeff the pulleys are AM37321 for the flat one and AM103542 for the "V" shaped one. You need to look these up in the 200 Series tractpr book as the PTO is part of the tractor not the deck. Roger |
Jeff Sarsons
Member
Username: Sauc_fixer
British Columbia
Registered: 5-2008
Post Number: 3
| | Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 5:49 pm: |
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Many thanks Roger. Parts now ordered.
Jeff |
Jeff Sarsons
Member
Username: Sauc_fixer
British Columbia
Registered: 5-2008
Post Number: 4
| | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 8:58 pm: |
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Hi Roger
You are the only person that responded. Perhaps I did not post my note properly. Do you have any suggestions about the problem(s) with the variator?
Thanks
Jeff Sarsons
Thanks
Jeff |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 2412
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 8:18 am: |
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If what you said above is true you need to take the variator out and find out why the center sheeve is not moving side to side easily. Could be a number of reasons but I suspect either rust or wear. There are not many parts that can go bad on the variator system and none I can think of that would be run time or gear choice dependent. Roger |
Maxwell Wheeler (Officially Cub-free now)
Member
Username: Deerepower235
NC
Registered: 2-2003
Post Number: 929
| | Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 - 5:32 pm: |
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My 210 is doing something similar. I do not have any belt tension on the engine to sheave belt and the variator lever has no pressure on it in either direction, just free movement when the button is held down. I adjusted the eye bolt all the way in and all the way out to no avail. I've lubed up all the linkages. The belts are not new but they are not worn out from what I can tell. I'm not sure though what else there is to look at to figure out why the sheave is not getting tight though and why the lever isn't working. |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 2426
| | Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 - 7:12 pm: |
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Maxwell there are two springs in the variator system. The one you are adjusting the eye bolt on and there is also a second spring that tightens the secondary idler pulley. That one could be disconnected, connected to the wrong place, stretched and weak or broken and cause your symptoms. It could also be as simple the rear idler pulley being on the belts incorrectly. It needs to be on top of both sides of the rear belt. Roger |
Maxwell Wheeler (Officially Cub-free now)
Member
Username: Deerepower235
NC
Registered: 2-2003
Post Number: 932
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 11:23 pm: |
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Well I got it fixed tonight I believe. I had the fender deck off and crawled around underneath and a friend of mine was wiggling the parking brake and low and behold the latch that locks out the pedal was some how hung holding the clutch in.
I got it to release and off she went. |
Jeff Sarsons
Member
Username: Sauc_fixer
British Columbia
Registered: 5-2008
Post Number: 5
| | Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 11:51 pm: |
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Good Evening Roger
My daunting task is now over. It was the variator spline/hub. It was not only scored around the hub but also several severe scratched almost parallel with the hub. Even removed from the tractor, any pressure on the centre sheave that was not equal to all parts would prevent it from moving back and forth that is why the viarator operation was inconsistent. My JD dealer said that in all his/their years they have not seen anything like it.
Getting a replacement hub and centre sheave was not easy as they are becoming obsolete. I replaced the outer half sheaves as the old ones were badly rusted with a very rough surface. The costs was probably a bad investment on my part. I could have been 25% into a second hand replacement.
The centre sheave was $138.50 Canadian.
I have the part numbers if anyone wants them and probably a good deal on used variator. The second picture under the comments of Joseph Unger was a help in getting the hangar assembly re-installed. There is a definite sequence in re-installing the parts. I did not remove the fenders etc.
Again thanks for your comments. Our Churches JD214 has never run so well.
Jeff Sarsons |
