| Author |
Message |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 121
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 07, 2010 - 9:37 pm: |
|
I received the 23hp Engine kit of SEW today, and had a question about the firewall. I was wondering if the new motor will fit against the foam, or do I need too replace it so the engine fits up against it. I figured I would ask before I went ahead and put it all together. Thanks Adam |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 123
| | Posted on Friday, April 09, 2010 - 9:10 pm: |
|
Here it is...
 |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 124
| | Posted on Friday, April 09, 2010 - 9:18 pm: |
|
Was able to start the motor tonight, had to fix a few electrical connectors, but went really well.
 |
   
Tom Shively
Member Username: Shivelyt In
Registered: 11-2004 Post Number: 683
| | Posted on Friday, April 09, 2010 - 9:32 pm: |
|
Glad it went well for you. That will give you many years of service. |
   
Keith Vertrees
Member Username: Echos67 Md
Registered: 9-2009 Post Number: 62
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 7:25 am: |
|
Adam, Nice work so far, did you have any problems with the kit from sew ? Was it basically a plug and play drop in ? How would you say the rated 23hp of Vanguard is compared to a good running Onan ? I am seriously thinking of a repower myself, I just cant decide between 2 options, the Vanguard like you choose, our the Kohler twin. I am just beginning the research on these so any info you can give me will be much appreciated. |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 125
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 7:34 am: |
|
I was doing a bunch of research before. I decided on the 23hp because I have a tiller, and some other attachments that I wanted more hp. For me, it was all plug in ready. The hardest thing I found was getting the motor in with the driveshaft, but my brother helped me and it went well. We used a hoist to lift it in. I had considered a kohler from another company, but the price for me was too high, this cost quite a bit, but I didn't want to spend I think it was 6-700 more. Good luck searching, I really liked small engine warehouse, they were easy and helpful to work with. Adam |
   
Shade Tree
Member Username: Shadetree
Registered: 6-2007 Post Number: 279
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 7:45 am: |
|
Adam What did you find out about the fit to the firewall? |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 127
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 8:46 am: |
|
I put the engine in, but I plan on pulling the firewall out and making the hole smaller with another sheet of steel and then put new foam on it. There is quite a bit of difference between the intake on the onan and the briggs. |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 128
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 2:57 pm: |
|
Here is progress on the firewall. I made the hole 9 7/8 using 22 guage sheet steel. The piece I used was 13"x14" to make sure it fit well along the bottom.
 |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 129
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 2:59 pm: |
|
Here is the other side. Now all I need is the foam.
 |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 142
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 8:42 pm: |
|
My fire-wall foam arrived today, Thank You John Lang. Everything went together well. Unfortunately my father tripped over something and cut open his arm on our big tractor so I had to take him to the hospital. He'll be fine though. Adam |
   
Bill Hamm
Member Username: Griff10 IL
Registered: 2-2010 Post Number: 12
| | Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 12:49 am: |
|
Is the only reason for the firewall really to keep the heat off the battery? With the Briggs engine it'll cool just fine as long as their factory baffles are in place, so that can't be the reason. Bill H. |
   
Mike Duwe
Member Username: Mikeduwe Wi
Registered: 10-2006 Post Number: 4176
| | Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 6:40 am: |
|
Its also to prevent recirculation of hot air back into the engine cooling fan. With the firewall you will be drawing only fresh air in the engine. |
   
JRL
Member Username: Jlang
Registered: 1-2002 Post Number: 4983
| | Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 7:34 am: |
|
Good work Adam. Now be sure to face the mylar toward the engine and glue the foam top the metal. Cut the foam so it extends about 3/4 inch beyond the metal so you get a good seal and cushion for the hood and side panels. The firewall foam properly installed also seems to help keep the engine cleaner, at least my tractors with the foam on the firewall stay much cleaner than those without it. I still need to install the foam on several of my Onan powered tractors but won't do it till I pull the engines. |
   
Kenny Andersen
Member Username: Kennyrayandersen TX
Registered: 7-2009 Post Number: 39
| | Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 10:53 am: |
|
I'm happy with my SEW install (23 HP Vanguard). So far I didn't do anything about the firewall. I had to drill a new hole into the heat shield since it was rubbing on the front pulley (I gave it 1/4 inch clearance). I considered the Kohler, but have read a lot of good about the Vanguards and the Kohler was more money and the place selling the kit was REALLY slow getting back to me (they actually responded after I had already installed the SEW kit). I saved $550 bucks over the next closest competitor and the engine came quick!, which was important to me at the time, and only had minor issues installing it. It was hard to get the shaft back in when it is connected to the engine, but a little patience paid off (I didn't have a hoist!). WAY better than the old Onan... IMO |
   
Tim Deichler
Member Username: Deichler WI
Registered: 8-2007 Post Number: 280
| | Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 11:34 pm: |
|
Adam and Kenny, how is the power with the Vanguard 23? I am looking into this for my 400. Do you think the 23 Vanguard will be enough power for the 400? I know SEW sells a repower kit, and was wondering if 23hp will be enough? Also, is it "plug and play"? The kit for the 400 on SEW shows the engine in a cradle already and looks ready to drop right in. I was wondering if that is so? If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for the kit you have? Did you get it from SEW or another place? Just trying to get as much info as I can to weigh my options. I know the kit from SEW is $1650, Jim's repower in Hastings, MN e-mailed me back and said $2200 for his "kit". He also said his "kit" is NOT plug and play and requires a lot of work. SO he is definatley out of the equasion for me as SEW looks like it is ready to drop in. For $1650 from SEW I get a engine and the wiring is already changed to the 400 and a muffler for my 400 application, and looks like an engine cradle, unless I use the one I already have. And from Jim's repower, I get just an engine from the sounds of things. Sorry for the long winded post, just wanted to get more info on this and weigh my options and make sure I make the right decisions and all. Thanks for any info you can give me! |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 143
| | Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 6:34 am: |
|
I was using it yesterday to till my garden, and I have to say that it would work for you. My old onan was tired, I will give it that, but this motor is hands down stronger and with the extra horsepower, it really was chewing. I would highly recommend it, even though I only have about 2 hours. Everything just drops in, plug it in to the wiring, bolt it up, and rock and roll. |
   
G. Taylor
Member Username: Bigdaddy
Registered: 10-2009 Post Number: 176
| | Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 6:50 am: |
|
Great to see more repower projects working great! Kenny...more POWER, Less noise and smooth running! The vanguard engines have loads of power...like your onan I would never go back to the old kohler. Good work Adam! |
   
Kenny Andersen
Member Username: Kennyrayandersen TX
Registered: 7-2009 Post Number: 40
| | Posted on Monday, April 26, 2010 - 8:47 am: |
|
Also, it charges the battery, doesn't get hot, no surges and no leaks! Frankly, it's just a lot more modern engine. I'm sure I could have gotten away with the 18HP but the wife gave me the green light for the 23HP, so I went for it -- no regrets! SEW did a reasonably good job -- just a little fiddling, but I'm kind of a perfectionist (blame my mother!). It took half a day to get it disassembled, and 2/3s of a day to get it back together. It's really not that hard. I did have to refer to a wiring diagram once, because the wires weren't hooked up quite right (not SEW's fault), and like I said, I swapped the cables because I wanted to keep the original throttle lever (that wasn't that hard either) so I spent a little extra time making it like I wanted. |
   
G. Taylor
Member Username: Bigdaddy
Registered: 10-2009 Post Number: 177
| | Posted on Monday, April 26, 2010 - 10:44 am: |
|
So true Kenny.... Just turn the key and it fires right up...no points, modern air cleaner, runs much cooler. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9XVobqON8A |
   
Shade Tree
Member Username: Shadetree
Registered: 6-2007 Post Number: 335
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 10:19 pm: |
|
Since having the drive shaft hooked to the engine when doing the install is the easiest way for me I came up with an off the wall cheat sheet to get the job done. I know the drive shaft can be bolted up with the engine in but I can no longer stand on my head or bend over for any length of time. Made my cheat sheet from one of the flaps of the box that the engine came in. I guess you could use any cardboard that is long and wide enough. Just make a trough by bending the flap into a U or V shape and slide it into the space between the hydro cooler where you want the drive shaft to go. I most always end up doing what ever I do solo and I have gotten so fat that my arms won't reach as far as I remember them being able to well any way this worked for me. I looked at my drive shaft the other day and my helper (hehe you know who) hadn't taken the cardboard out and it was still there and had been there for some time. Guess he forgot. ST |
   
Bill Stackpole
Member Username: Stacker MN
Registered: 1-2010 Post Number: 23
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 9:53 am: |
|
I ordered my 23 Vanguard from Sew for my 318--should get it on friday. Got some foam coming from John Lang. My question is about the firewall. I plan on using the 22 gauge sheetmetal like Adam did. Thanks for the dimensions and pics, by the way, Adam. My question is: Can I use a jigsaw to cut the opening,or any other suggestions? Thanks--Bill |
   
jason halouska
Member Username: Halouska1 NE
Registered: 5-2009 Post Number: 31
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:05 am: |
|
How did you remove the driveshaft from the pump? I have a 317, knocked out the roll pin, but cant get it to budge from the pump input shaft |
   
Kevin
Member Username: Khe MI
Registered: 11-2007 Post Number: 112
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:11 am: |
|
John (JRL) what type of glue do you use to adhere the foam to the firewall at the top? I thought the foam had adheshive already on it? Do you have a pattern or photos - my factory foam has long since disintigrated. |
   
Adam J Quist
Member Username: Aquist06 New York
Registered: 12-2009 Post Number: 200
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 5:02 pm: |
|
Kevin, when I did my firewall, I used 3m spray adhesive from a auto parts store. You will have to spray it on, let it sit for a minute or two, and then apply the foam. It needs to get tacky. I had a small paint roller and used that to make sure I had good contact. |