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140 oil pan gasket

Weekend Freedom Machines » Restoration and Repair Forum » Hydrostatic Drive Tractors » 140 oil pan gasket « Previous Next »

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George Bock
Member
Username: George_bock
PA
Registered: 9-2003
Post Number: 315
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

After an engine rebuild, the oil pan gasket keeps leaking. This will be the 3rd time I've had to pull the engine to replace the gasket. (it's getting old) I am concerned about getting dirt in the engine when I clean up the block from the old gasket. Any tricks or tips? Also, any tips on installing the gasket? Using kohler gasket and torque to 25 ft lb. Never had this trouble before. Thanks.
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Leonard Stevenson
Member
Username: Leonards
IA
Registered: 5-2009
Post Number: 361
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Did you put a straight edge on the bottom of the block and on the oil pan? Maybe one or the other is warped. The pan would be an easy fix but the block would be tougher in an assembled engine.

Leonard
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Rickey McKenna
Member
Username: Rmckenna
ME
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 72
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would use a new gasket and then apply a thin layer of "The Right Stuff" which is a black gasket sealer. I have used this on many applications including my hydro pump on my 112H which leaked after installing all new o-rings. I have never had a problem after using this stuff.
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Steve Wilson
Member
Username: Mrwilson
MN
Registered: 9-2004
Post Number: 116
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 1:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I second the motion on the Right Stuff, I use it to make the front and rear intake gaskets on small block chevys and ford 390s. It is amazing. I was shocked at how expensive it has gotten though, 18.99 at a local chain-type auto parts store. Still worth it in my opinion though.
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George Bock
Member
Username: George_bock
PA
Registered: 9-2003
Post Number: 316
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 1:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Leonard- I didn't put a straight edge on the block or pan. I'll check to make sure.
I'll give The Right Stuff a try. Thanks for the help.
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Dennis Hartmann
Member
Username: Dennish
MN
Registered: 11-2006
Post Number: 32
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 1:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

George - Double and Triple check that the reed valves on your breather seat tightly. I went through the same thing years ago with our K321. Three pan gaskets later I talked to a small engine guy that said lap the valves and look at the breather. The crankcase was pressurizing... I guess the pan gasket is the path of least resistance.
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Mike Duwe
Member
Username: Mikeduwe
Wi
Registered: 10-2006
Post Number: 4408
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 1:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do you have an aluminum or cast iron oil pan?
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George Bock
Member
Username: George_bock
PA
Registered: 9-2003
Post Number: 317
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 8:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dennis - I'll check the breather. That would make sense.

Mike - It's a cast iron pan.
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Sam Carpenter
Member
Username: Samcarpen
VA
Registered: 9-2004
Post Number: 41
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 5:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You need gasket shellac. Indian Head I believe is the brand name. An easy check of your breather assembly is the presence of vacuum at the dipstick tube. Using a water manometer your engine should pull five or 6 inches of vacuum.

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