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K181 valve clearance

Weekend Freedom Machines » The WFM Archives » Restoration Forum - Round Fender Tractors Archive » K181 valve clearance « Previous Next »

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Phil Hamilton
Member
Username: Pbhamilton
ca
Registered: 8-2005
Post Number: 14
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 7:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hi, when I checked my valve lash the intake was @ .006 which is correct I believe, and my exhaust was @ .021, I believe it should be .017 these were cold readings. is there anything I could do or need to do? thanks Phil..
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Roy Schroeder
Member
Username: Ereed011
Wi
Registered: 4-2007
Post Number: 119
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 7:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Valve clearance from the book is .006 to .008 on the intake, and .17 to .19 on the exhaust valve. Your right in there Phil.
You can go to www.kohler.com and get the repair manual on line. It is a pdf file, so you could save it in your computer, or just print the pages you want.
Click on engines, then classic engines, and pick your engine.
Roy
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Kenny Weimann
Member
Username: Kennyw
CT
Registered: 4-2002
Post Number: 1045
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 6:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You forgot a decimal place on the exhaust, it's .017/.019
Make sure to check them cold.
Most times on an older engine, the valve stem will wear into the lifter adjuster screw's head, as much as a few thou, therefore when you slip a .021 feeler gage in there, it rests on the high spots of the head giving a false high reading. You are probably ok with the .021 as .002 past the .019 isn't terrible.

Kenny
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Kenny Weimann
Member
Username: Kennyw
CT
Registered: 4-2002
Post Number: 1046
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 6:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

valve
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Phil Hamilton
Member
Username: Pbhamilton
ca
Registered: 8-2005
Post Number: 15
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 7:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks guys for your responses Phil.
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Roy Schroeder
Member
Username: Ereed011
Wi
Registered: 4-2007
Post Number: 122
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 7:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sorry about that ,0 , I left out. You would have one loud valve there.
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James Flaugher
Member
Username: Jim_f
Ne
Registered: 4-2007
Post Number: 51
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 8:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Only the folks that have never made a mistake are upset with you, Roy. I can see where the Kohler engines are more sophisticated than my Tecumseh HH100, it doesn't have adjustable valves. The book says if the clearance is too tight after the valve is ground that you should grind some off of the end of the valve stem. Don't know what you do if they are too loose except replace the whole valve train.
Jim F
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Kenny Weimann
Member
Username: Kennyw
CT
Registered: 4-2002
Post Number: 1047
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 9:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

James,
You hit the nail on the head! The K181 does NOT have adjustable valve lifters so my wearing in statement and picture only applies to 10-16 hp K Series. I do too many with the adjusters and not enough 8 hp's. You DO have to grind the valve stem to INCREASE valve lash. The only way to decrease it would be cut the valve seats deeper. I think he will be ok with the .021 though. Thanks for pointing that out.

Kenny
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James Flaugher
Member
Username: Jim_f
Ne
Registered: 4-2007
Post Number: 53
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

To be honest Kenny, I had no idea that the K181 didn't have adjustable valves. Anything that I may have pointed out was purely accidental! I guess I'll have to look at the Kohler more closely in the repair manual. Cutting the valve seats deeper seems to be the hard way to decrease valve lash but I don't see any other way. The Kohler does have the balance shafts where the Tecumseh doesn't. Or is that just on the 10-16hp engines. I know the HH100 isn't nearly as smooth as the Kohler that was in my old Wheel Horse
Jim
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Kenny Weimann
Member
Username: Kennyw
CT
Registered: 4-2002
Post Number: 1053
Posted on Friday, June 01, 2007 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Never seen balance gears on an 8 hp, I guess not enough reciprocating mass to cause a noticeable shake. I use a Neway cutter to recut the seats. Another way would be to regrind the valve to lower it. Cheap way is to chuck it in a lathe or drill press and dress the 45 degree angle with an orbital sander or fine file. Just be sure to lap it to the seat and make sure you have a good seal as evidenced by an even witness ring in the middle of the valve land. People have done this in a pinch and it works. Not the pro way to go but it will get you where you need to be. Kenny
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James Flaugher
Member
Username: Jim_f
Ne
Registered: 4-2007
Post Number: 58
Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 8:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I might have to give that a try next time I have the engine apart. The valves were a little on the loose side last time. I didn't have any pitting or burning on them so I just lapped them. How would you know how much to take off? I guess you would have to keep checking by putting them back in. I'd probably end up buying new valves if I tried to dress them in the drill press.
Jim
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Bruce Bratz
Member
Username: Fireman802
WA
Registered: 3-2004
Post Number: 77
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 7:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Kenny, how do you grind the valve stems to increase the clearance? I'm rebuilding a 181 and need to increase the clearance after refaceing the seats.
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Kenny Weimann
Member
Username: Kennyw
CT
Registered: 4-2002
Post Number: 1061
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2007 - 6:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bruce,

I have a grinding wheel setup to do it.

In a pinch, take a piece of 1/2 inch thick steel and drill a 5/16 hole through it, preferably with a drill press to keep it square to the base.
Then you can place the valve in the block, put some emery cloth on a piece of glass, and rub the valve stem on the emery cloth while applying pressure to the valve. The steel mounting block keeps the valve stem square while you "sand off" the stem. I did it this way until I got my grinding setup. I have also used bench grinders that have the tilting tool rest on them and pivot the valve stem into the side of the wheel. This works good also. Kenny
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Bruce Bratz
Member
Username: Fireman802
WA
Registered: 3-2004
Post Number: 80
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2007 - 10:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Kenny, I'll give that a try. I wasn't sure how I would hold the valve square. I had thought of some v blocks, but this sounds like it'll work just fine. Thanks again for the idea.

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