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Regular Hy-Gard - better temp range?

Weekend Freedom Machines » The WFM Archives » Restoration Forum - Hydrostatic Tractors Archive » Regular Hy-Gard - better temp range? « Previous Next »

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Tom
Member
Username: Minisub
OH
Registered: 12-2004
Post Number: 794
Posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2012 - 8:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Getting ready to change hydro fluid in all three tractors and was browsing the technical manual. I have been using Lo Vis Hy-Gard as most here seem to do. The temp range for Lo Vis is -40 to 86 F. Regular Hy-Gard is -13 to 122 F.

Honestly, I often see temps over the mid 80s, and the few times it has been as cold as -10 to -15 here, I am not really inclined to be doing much outside.

Any harm in going with the "thicker" stuff? The manual seems to indicate that is actually the better choice.
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Eric Ferguson
Member
Username: Cuatrokoop
OH
Registered: 10-2011
Post Number: 174
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 5:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had posted up some information on Hy-Gard a month ago or so, as to what it really is since JD doesn't manufacture oil themselves. Trying to do a search for it now...They were either AW22 & 32 or AW32 and 46. I can't remember. But regardless, they were standard off the shelf "anti-wear" ISO grade oils that you can get from several local places.

Based off the temp ranges you posted, I would agree with your thoughts on it, and I think that was the conclusion I came to when the 430 needed more hydraulic oil as well. Just remember to let it warm up a bit before doing anything "aggressive" with it (as in, a few minutes of run time) if the temps are cooler.
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Tom Shively
Member
Username: Shivelyt
In
Registered: 11-2004
Post Number: 851
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 6:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

This question has come up several times due to the temperature charts. One important thing to consider is the viscosity index of the oil, which is basically how well oil performs at temperature extremes. The higher the number the better. Oil with a higher number retains a more even viscosity across a wider temperature range. I haven't seen a chart for a while, but I believe regular Hygard is 140 and Low vis is 195.
Tom
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Eric Ferguson
Member
Username: Cuatrokoop
OH
Registered: 10-2011
Post Number: 175
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Direct from John Deere:

Low-Viscosity Hy-Gard has an ISO 32 viscosity grade. Hy-Gard viscosity places it between ISO 46 and 68 grades.

The lower ISO number (higher VI number) will actually perform worse at elevated temperatures, but because it has a lower pour point it will perform better than a higher ISO number (lower VI number).

My industrial chart shows ISO32 being good from 18F to 147F (process temperature). ISO46 is good from 28F to 163F (again, process temperature).
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Tom Shively
Member
Username: Shivelyt
In
Registered: 11-2004
Post Number: 854
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 2:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here is a copy of the service bulletin that Kent Ortman had in a post a few years ago.
Hi Guy's. Here is a paste of a service bulletin from when JD quit making the hydrostat fluid.

94-11-30-6
DTAC Solution Number:
16 August 1994
Complaint or Symptom:
- John Deere All Weather Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) J21A is discontinued. What do we use?
- Can ATF and HY-GARD® transmission oil be mixed?
Situation:
No published information available.
Solution:
1. John Deere recommends using Low-Viscosity HY-GARD transmission and hydraulic oil (J20D).
2. Only mix ATF with HY-GARD if “topping off” transmission filled with ATF. DO NOT add ATF to a
transmission filled with HY-GARD.
Additional Information:
- Color of ATF will begin to change to a darker brown as larger concentrations of HY-GARD are added.
- When draining and refilling, no flushing is required unless needed to purge contaminates.
- J20A Regular Viscosity HY-GARD has been upgraded to J20C.
J20B Low Viscosity HY-GARD has been upgraded to J20D.
- Low-Viscosity HY-GARD is better than Regular Viscosity in preventing cavitation at start-up. At lower
temperatures, Regular Viscosity HY-GARD gets too thick and may cavitate (create a vacuum void in
the oil due to suction and low atmospheric pressure). This will cause noise and internal hydro damage.
Parts:
Low Viscosity HY-GARD OIL (1) TY22035 1 Quart
Low Viscosity HY-GARD OIL (1) TY22000 1 Gallon
Low Viscosity HY-GARD OIL (1) TY6342 5 Gallon
Low Viscosity HY-GARD OIL (1) TY6344 55 Gallon
TRANSMISSION OIL SUBSTITUTE
All 316, 317, 318, 322, 330, 332, 400, 420 and 430 Lawn and Garden Tractors
M10042

Tom
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KnottyRope
Member
Username: Knottyrope
MA
Registered: 4-2007
Post Number: 1162
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 2:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

-10 to 105 temps here and my 420 still runs strong with low vis Hy guard since 2004.

I even got the front tires off the ground a few times, kids love wheelies
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Jim Briney
Member
Username: Lodogg2221
IN
Registered: 1-2006
Post Number: 25
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 2:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My 318 has run Low-vis since new in 87 and has zero issues with the hydro. Gets really cold in the Winter and really hot in the Summer.

Ive also never had an issue while plowing, which puts a lot more strain on components than most other things you can do.

And after reading about the cavitation causing damage, Ill stick with Low-vis since its worked all this time.
If it aint broke and all that...

To be honest, I dont know that it will matter too much, as long as you dont store your tractor out in the cold. My garage, before I began keeping it above freezing in there, rarely ever got below 20 degrees in the Winter.

If its worked for you so far, keep using it!
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Tom
Member
Username: Minisub
OH
Registered: 12-2004
Post Number: 795
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 7:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for all the input. I know type F vs low Vis has been discussed to death, but didn't recall a lot about this.

I just got concerned looking at that chart last night as it gets hot here in summer and I figure the hydro is running perhaps an order of magnitude higher than spec for the low Vis.

Guess I will just get 4 gallons more, keep doing what I have been doing and not worry!

Jim, why do you only have 25 posts?
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JDF
Member
Username: Swampfox
CO
Registered: 11-2008
Post Number: 28
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 8:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Because he has been demoted like me...
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Jim Briney
Member
Username: Lodogg2221
IN
Registered: 1-2006
Post Number: 28
Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was gonna say because it resets after so many, but I guess Jerry let the cat out of the bag...lol.
Some of us who re-registered during the forum glitch had our post count reset.

No biggie...give me a few months, it will be back up there! LOL!
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Tom
Member
Username: Minisub
OH
Registered: 12-2004
Post Number: 796
Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2012 - 6:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You re-registered, lost your post count but both kept your original join date?

Gotta love sunsetted software. ;-)

Well gents, it's not a race, but I will point out you are both "tied" at 28 right now. Let the games begin.....
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Jim Briney
Member
Username: Lodogg2221
IN
Registered: 1-2006
Post Number: 30
Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2012 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

LOL!

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