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Wiring Diagram for John Deere 318

Weekend Freedom Machines » The WFM Archives » Restoration Forum - Hydrostatic Tractors Archive » Wiring Diagram for John Deere 318 « Previous Next »

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James Archer
Member
Username: J_archer
PA
Registered: 10-2007
Post Number: 9
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2007 - 8:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Greetings,

I'm still trying to chase out what happened to the lights on my 318. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 318?

When I was plowing with it Sunday, the whole tractor died suddenly. I quickly discovered the main 20A fuse blown and a hint of the "short circuit" smell. After a quick trip to the car parts store for some fuses, I replaced it and was off and running again -- only the lights no longer worked as they had previously. Hopefully it's just a bad wire connection somewhere, but I have a hunch my switch might be kaput. A diagram would help greatly.
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Dave Maslowski
Member
Username: Jd318_mazz
IA
Registered: 2-2002
Post Number: 466
Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2007 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

application/pdf
316_318_420 wiring.pdf (60.4 k)


Hope this worked. Good luck James.
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Kevin
Member
Username: Khe
MI
Registered: 11-2007
Post Number: 17
Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2007 - 6:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dave,

Do you have a full scan of the 318 diagram? The one in your post is cut off near the bottom. Thanks!!!
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James Archer
Member
Username: J_archer
PA
Registered: 10-2007
Post Number: 12
Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2007 - 6:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Randy, Steven & Dave!

Thank YOU, the diagram did indeed help.

I found it! It was indeed the switch. I had a "circuit" straight to ground from both terminals of the switch, but luckily open between them. Being curious, I did an autopsy on the switch and pryed back the tabs to open it. Inside the plunger rod is connected to a metal slide with a spring loaded plastic insulation block. Mounted on the insulation block is a small brass plate which makes contact between the teminals themselves. On mine the plastic had worn enough to let the brass contact plate contact the metal slide (Ground).

Since there is normally less than 3/32" between those two -- never should touch -- metal parts in the switch, combined with the big burn mark where they did and the completely melted plastic insulator, I'm pretty sure I got it. I did actually rig the burned switch to work with some electrical tape and my dremel until I get the new switch I had to order.
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Dave Maslowski
Member
Username: Jd318_mazz
IA
Registered: 2-2002
Post Number: 467
Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2007 - 8:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Kevin - Sorry about that. Here's a better rendition. - Dave

application/pdf
316_318_420_wiring.pdf (52.5 k)
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Kevin
Member
Username: Khe
MI
Registered: 11-2007
Post Number: 18
Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2007 - 9:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Dave!!!
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James Archer
Member
Username: J_archer
PA
Registered: 10-2007
Post Number: 22
Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2007 - 9:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dave;

Thank YOU!

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