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JD 318 - B43G Engine oil leak

Weekend Freedom Machines » The WFM Archives » Restoration Forum - Hydrostatic Tractors Archive » JD 318 - B43G Engine oil leak « Previous Next »

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Heinz Frank
Member
Username: Heinz
Alberta
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 8
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2008 - 1:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am about to replace a B43G which has a major oil leak. After about three hours of using my mower I need to add about 1/2 liter of oil. The oil leaks ..... not used. The engine does not smoke and I do not believe it is using much, if any, oil. When parked the oil just drips and drips for some time after. I cannot believe a gasket could cause such a leak. Has anyone else run into such a problem. With all the sheet metal around one cannot identify where the leak is coming from. I will take the engine out in a few days or weeks and I will look for the leak but if there are some hints or if someone has also run into such a problem it would be nice to hear about it.
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Jake Knudslien
Member
Username: Northernjake
AB
Registered: 6-2007
Post Number: 38
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2008 - 2:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Hienz,
From a fellow Albertan from up North, yes I have experienced what you are describing. Although I have the P series (1987) Anyways with it, the major leak was from the oil filter mounting bracket. Apparently very common on those engines. My son needed a "project" when he took up his shop class last year, he removed the engine and I provided him with all the gaskets that may have been required. Long story-short, he cleaned the entire engine up and determined that it was from the filter bracket, I have not had a drip since.(Boy did I get a deal on no labour cost) It is so nice now, the deck just has some odd clippings without all the oil. I don't think I have topped it up combined so far with less than a litre/pint throughout the summer, and it has 1450 hours. It used to leak so much after it got hot, I was sacred that I would be reported to the Environment control.I hope that is all is wrong for you. When/if you have the engine out is a good time to give a thorough cleaning of the engine fins,etc., and the rest of the tractor, and any consideration of a rebuild to the motor, starter?....
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Heinz Frank
Member
Username: Heinz
Alberta
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 9
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2008 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Interesting, are all the gaskets available to repair this leak. I know the engine is old and I understand it has many hard to find parts. That is why I ordered a Kohler + kit to fit in the JD318. Mmmm.. mounting bracket - I guess I will see it when I take the motor out. Any more info on that?? The engine has about 800 hours on it. The compression is about 85 psi after letting it run for about 10 minutes -- I have not measured it after finishing a cut. Not sure what the "standard" procedure to measure compression. I have not given a rebuild a thought.. the engine should be in reasonable shape and it is such a shame to junk it. I would think once a person starts a rebuild you will have to replace more and more parts and adding all that up may be part of the price of a new motor. I will certainly clean up the engine and then inspect the oil filter area. Can a person start and run the engine when it is out?

Thanks for this input Jake.
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Jake Knudslien
Member
Username: Northernjake
AB
Registered: 6-2007
Post Number: 39
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2008 - 2:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was able to get a complete gasket kit from JD for my P series last year.

Jake
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Heinz Frank
Member
Username: Heinz
Alberta
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 10
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 9:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does anyone know if you can run a B43G after you have taken it out. After taking the engine out it would be nice to run it on a mount of some sort to see exactly where the oil leak is and then after repairing, say with gaskets, if the oil leak is gone. I can see possibly running a hose into a can of gas, placing 12V battery on starter and then finding some way of keeping 12V on the ignition to start and keep the engine running but that is all in theory now how easy is it to do that?
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Jake Knudslien
Member
Username: Northernjake
AB
Registered: 6-2007
Post Number: 40
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/17/394242.html

Heinz, here is a link to John O'Donnells' thread, then scroll down to March 1st, he made a couple of videos which are very good.

Jake
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Heinz Frank
Member
Username: Heinz
Alberta
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 18
Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Now that I have repowered my JD 318 with a Kohler I can start with doing something with my B43G. First question-- Is it worth it? ie to rework/rebuild the B43G. Will it be worth anything after the work is done.

My thought was to do a ring job and gasket reworkand that would be it --- but .. can a person get away with just that or is this just good money down the drain. What else should I look for? i am not a mechanic but just a handyman trying to get a bit more life out of a motor. I have read on other links that others have only done this (rings and gaskets) and it has worked out well... any others?? suggestions?
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Rich T
Member
Username: Rattosh51
MN
Registered: 7-2006
Post Number: 296
Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 6:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Heinz,
Yes that B43g is worth the gasket & ring job.
With only 800 hours on it, a little freshening up should get you another 1000 at least. If you want to sell it, let me know. My B43g died at 1145 hours, and I would gladly put another one in.

(Message edited by rattosh51 on October 15, 2008)
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Jim Aldinger
Member
Username: Jdfan
Wi
Registered: 5-2006
Post Number: 1133
Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 7:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Heinz,
I had a nasty leak in a B43 and it turned out to be the oil pressure sending unit.

Did you ever check the compression?

Jim A.
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Heinz Frank
Member
Username: Heinz
Alberta
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 19
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 8:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Rich, I have not decided as to what I will do with the engine. From the input I am getting here it seems it should be worth a ring and gasket set and I think I can do that. Honing seems to be another thing one should get done with replacing the the rings; and since the valves are right there check them out to. Cost appears to be about $200 without getting other estimates.

Jim, there is so much sheet metal around the engine that one has to take it all off to see where the leak is coming from. I have repowered the JD 318 so I will have time to "play" with this B43G. The oil leak was getting worse with time so I just made sure the oil level was up at all times because I just did not have time to investigate and repair. I did take the compression and after running for about 10 minutes it was about 85 psi on both cylinders. It did not smoke during normal running. Now 85 psi is lower than the 110 - 115 psi that I believe one should see and it was the main reason for just opting for the repower.
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Rich T
Member
Username: Rattosh51
MN
Registered: 7-2006
Post Number: 297
Posted on Monday, October 20, 2008 - 5:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Heinz,
As Jim said, a common leak area is the sending unit, or the actual oil filter housing. The sending unit is right next to the oil filter. Take that metal off of the engine and just look around--oil leaks are usually pretty obvious to see, and there's only a few bolts that hold on the metal. Since the engine is out, taking the metal off will be easy. Good luck with it, and keep us updated.
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Heinz Frank
Member
Username: Heinz
Alberta
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 20
Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 6:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Finally got the time and courage to tackle this task. Got all the sheet metal off and there are a few surprises. Firstly the fins on the cylinders "are clean" and the head gaskets look as if they were replaced. Secondly, the only area that appears as if it has an oil leak is at the front end where the electric clutch is mounted. There are no oil leakage indications from the filter or oil sensor areas. When I obtained the 318 last year I replaced the air filter -- cleaned the whole area before putting the air filter in. The oil filter and area were pretty oily and cruddy in just one years use (maybe 25 hours of use). So, not knowing the history of this machine and who worked on it should I carry on. I would think the leak on the front is from the crank area. How big of a job is that and what seals are required?

What could I run into as far as the low compression if I were to attempt to replace the rings. How would I know what parts to get since I have read sometimes oversize pistons/rings can be used on repairs. I have no specs. Where else could the oil in the filter area be coming from other than bypass from the cylinders. Valve/ valve seals/ guides? Lot of questions. Anyone have some suggestions where to go from here?
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Hank van Cleef
Member
Username: Hankvc
WY
Registered: 9-2007
Post Number: 163
Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 7:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Heinz, if you are going to do serious work on an Onan engine, get the CTM2 technical manual. It covers all the engine repair tasks, and gives fits, clearances, tolerances, etc.

Best bet, if you are going to go into the engine at all seriously, is to get the overhaul gasket kit. I just bought one ($135), and am glad I did, since I've gone into the engine further than planned. It includes the crankshaft seals.

Stock cylinder bore is 3.25 You'll have to pull the heads to check cylinder bore size and condition.

Piston kits, ring kits, connecting rods, piston pins, are all available.

These engines come apart pretty easily. You'll have to evaluate internal condition by disassembling and inspecting before determining how much machine work is needed and what parts are needed.

Hank
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Chuck Van Dusen
Member
Username: Chuckv
OR
Registered: 1-2007
Post Number: 1479
Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 8:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Heinz,

Here in the Portland, Oregon area I find that the local Cummins dealer often has parts in stock, and cheaper than the Deere dealer for these Onans.

Also Toro used to post online all the manual information for their commercial units, now it is just the recent ones. They sell a CD version of every manual in a set for commercial equipment for about $36 -- it included the model 62 and 220 Groundskeeper mowers that had Onan engines. I will send you some useful info by PM...

Chuck
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Heinz Frank
Member
Username: Heinz
Alberta
Registered: 8-2008
Post Number: 21
Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Major discovery. I was determined to find out where the oil leak was coming from. The crank area seals were dry!! There was a lot of "gunk" around the electric clutch mounting ring so it was a major suspect. With the engine on the floor, I rigged up a 4L milk jug with gas and a 1/4 inch fuel line to the fuel pump. Placed 12V on the coil and then jumpered the starter and ran the engine for about 15 minutes. Sure enough oil was leaking out from under the clutch mounting ring area. Not only that but the 5 bolts on the crankshaft ring must have been loose because I actually saw the whole thing move or vibrate. I stopped the engine and torqued the 5 bolts. Then started the engine again and ran it for 15 minutes. NO LEAKS. Did a compression test and one cylinder measured about 80 psi and 85 psi on the other.

The saga continues I guess - does this mean that someone did something to the crankshaft and didn't torque the bolts? There are many implications now. I will have to open the cylinders and the bottom and have a peak inside.
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Jim Aldinger
Member
Username: Jdfan
Wi
Registered: 5-2006
Post Number: 1136
Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 5:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Don't you just love a good mystery??

Jim A.
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Korey Kuehni
Member
Username: Kordog
Wi
Registered: 10-2006
Post Number: 194
Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 9:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

AAHHHH!!!! Jim is posting!!! Have you added to your fleet since we last talked?!?!?!!? Holy cow Jim, do you need to store your 318 with the FEL at my place??? Korey
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Jim Aldinger
Member
Username: Jdfan
Wi
Registered: 5-2006
Post Number: 1138
Posted on Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 2:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Korey,

Great to hear from you! Yeah, one more 318 was added that I really don't need all that much but my friend asked me if I wanted it and I said okay.

Yes, the FEL is nice. Just last week I knocked down a a 3 yd. pile of topsoil and finished off the grade along some new driveways and I did the whole job in about 1-1/2 hrs. It's quite a little workhorse and one heck of a labor saver!

Jim A.

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