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112 Not CHARGING

Weekend Freedom Machines » The WFM Archives » Restoration Forum - Gear Drive Tractors Archive » 112 Not CHARGING « Previous Next »

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Evan Hallgarth AKA Bill Johnson
Member
Username: Bob123
IN
Registered: 10-2008
Post Number: 87
Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 7:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My 112 is not charging. It is a 1970 kholer model. It does not have a John Deere Key switch and has been wired to work on a key qwitch ff of another mower. could this be the problem? How could I test for thids? Also is there a way to have a seperate switch for the ignition and starter?
Thanks Evan
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Pete Anderson
Member
Username: Challenger
Maryland
Registered: 1-2010
Post Number: 54
Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 8:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Evan,

If you do not have a manual for your Kohler, you can download or print out the manual from the Internet Kohler home page. You really need to have the manual's wiring schematic and the Kohler troubleshooting advice to attack this issue with a volt/ohm meter. There can be a number of reasons for this problem, including your off- market key switch. I do not recommend jerryrigging your starter switch or any of the wiring harness.
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Tim Deichler
Member
Username: Deichler
WI
Registered: 8-2007
Post Number: 219
Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 9:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If it is a Kohler, chances are very good that it is the Voltage Regulator box on the side of the battery box. Mine did that, and replaced the box, presto! We have charging again. Pricey little guy, I think it was $85 from Deere.
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Stan Barnes
Member
Username: Stanb112
CT
Registered: 2-2002
Post Number: 2363
Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My suggestion is to clean all the contacts in the charging circuit connectors and check the alternator output before replacing any parts other than the switch. Alternator output should be over 27 volts AC at the regulator plug with it disconnected and the engine running at 3/4 throttle.
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Evan Hallgarth AKA Bill Johnson
Member
Username: Bob123
IN
Registered: 10-2008
Post Number: 88
Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 1:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks everybody I have another Voltage Regulater box and will try to switch it out as soon as I get off the internate. Hope it works
Evan
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Evan Hallgarth AKA Bill Johnson
Member
Username: Bob123
IN
Registered: 10-2008
Post Number: 90
Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 6:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I dont have another voltage regulater and I dont want to spend 80 bucks when it might not be my problem. When I put in a different battery it only lost .50 volts or so and did not shut off on me. Could it be my battery? Any more suggestions would help. Spring is soon!
Evan
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Evan Hallgarth AKA Bill Johnson
Member
Username: Bob123
IN
Registered: 10-2008
Post Number: 91
Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2010 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Any Help Please
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Jason Rowland
Member
Username: Ripple_fx1
IN
Registered: 5-2009
Post Number: 124
Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2010 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Grab your voltmeter, run up the rpm like Stan says, and let us know what DC voltage you measure at the battery posts....
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Stan Barnes
Member
Username: Stanb112
CT
Registered: 2-2002
Post Number: 2372
Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2010 - 1:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Measure DC voltage at the battery posts with the engine off, then start the engine, run it up to 3/4 throttle and check the voltage again. If the second reading is not higher than the first the next step is to measure AC voltage at the regulator.

We can talk you though this second test if necessary.
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Kory Kreisler
Member
Username: Kory_kreisler
MN
Registered: 4-2008
Post Number: 68
Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2010 - 2:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bill,
Since you have a non Deere switch I would first start by making sure that you have 12v to the middle wire of the plug on your Regulator/Rectifier box when the key is in the on position. If you do move onto testing the AC output of the stator, there should be 28-32 VAC at WOT between the outside 2 leads coming from under the flywheel. If you have that it's probably the regulator/rectifier that needs replacing.

I just went through the charging system on my Tecumseh and that was my problem found a new aftermarket regulator/rectifier on ebay. Do a search on ebay for "KOHLER REGULATOR RECTIFIER JOHN DEERE AM102596" $33+shipping. The auction says 20 amp systems but I looked up the part# and it's for the 10 amp systems.

Item should look like this


Kory

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