| Author |
Message |
    
Duane Bartelt
Member
Username: Esnb74
NE
Registered: 4-2010
Post Number: 2
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 5:21 pm: | 
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Ken,
The Vanguard went in pretty easy. I did have to file out about a 1/4 inch of the side cover under the muffler for clearance. In hind sight, I would have spaced the motor up with a 3/8 inch flat stock. Other than that it was plug and play. I had to paint the covers green so it match - of course.  |
Ken Shelby
Member
Username: Thunder_clouds
WA
Registered: 6-2007
Post Number: 139
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 4:27 pm: |
|
Great work Duane, the vanguard really looks like it belongs there, side covers and all! Were there allot of mods required to make her fit?
I also have JBjr, one of the originals before they had the linear motors. It uses a winch to raise an lower the bucket. It has been a great tool, I can't tell you how many yards of dirt, gravel and mulch I hauled in it. Not to mention a good deal of grading. It is in excellent shape, I even checked into sending it back to have the linear motors added, it was a fair price and I would have done it, but the shipping would of been killer! I think I am going to give it a shot myself. I would have got the JBsr, but I didn't have my 140 at the time. Enjoy and show us it in action!
That was a great article on the 318 Scott, they were way ahead of the competition. Looking through the rest of the mag it really was amazing how everything else had changed since '68. |
Chuck Van Dusen
Member
Username: Chuckv
OR
Registered: 1-2007
Post Number: 3810
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 4:03 pm: |
|
John,
Welcome to the WFM forum! It sounds like the air gap on your PTO is out of adjustment -- the hesitancy to re-engage when warm is a classic symptom of the gap being quite a bit larger than specification.
I am not sure what the gap spec is for the 140, but for later tractors in the 300 series it is 0.018 inches. It is easy to adjust using a feeler gauge inserted in the slots on the circumference that are provided for measuring this air gap. Here is an illustration from a typical manual.
The self locking nuts on the studs with the springs on them can be turned to change the gap. Make the adjustment in small steps and recheck all the slots after the last adjustment as they interact a bit.
Hope this helps...
Chuck |
Joe Loch
Member
Username: Jloch
oh
Registered: 12-2005
Post Number: 659
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 3:44 pm: |
|
for anyone thinking about buying a front end loader please see my post in the repair section under allied attachments in regards to Ironman Fabrication / compact tractor and components.
Joe |
John Schneider
Member
Username: Johnschneider
AB
Registered: 7-2010
Post Number: 1
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 3:41 pm: |
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New here and just picked up my new to me 1969 JD 140. Nice little tractor but I was mowing some tall weeds with it last night and after I finished I noticed that the pto wouldn't engage. I mean that I finished mowing noticed a patch I missed...went to engage the pto and it wouldn't do anything. Drove back to the yard and fiddled a bit. I did notice that it would engage the pto when the engine speed was low. Mostly though...it would just squeal quietly when I engaged the toggle switch. Seems out of adjustment. A little advice? |
Jesse Whiteman
Member
Username: Jesse_whiteman
OH
Registered: 1-2010
Post Number: 4
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 2:46 pm: |
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Roger, u can shift the variator on the go...but the manual says to always start off with the lever all the way back in the first position. |
Tom Smith
Member
Username: Tsmith1499
MD
Registered: 10-2009
Post Number: 8
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 12:52 pm: |
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Just a quick question. I know that you can verify a patio tractor by serial # on 1970 and later, but is there any way to verify this on earlier models. According to the WFM info, before 1970 they were just numbered like the regular tractors. I have a 1969 112 that I know is a patio because of all the white paint the dealer didn't paint over when they shot it green. |
Dale W. Vogel
Member
Username: Sandburr
IL
Registered: 3-2007
Post Number: 258
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 12:08 pm: |
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Very nice restore Duane, and upgrades ! I too have the JB Sr as well. |
Chuck Van Dusen
Member
Username: Chuckv
OR
Registered: 1-2007
Post Number: 3807
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 12:02 pm: |
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Duane,
Welcome to the WFM ranks of vintage tractor owners!!
Wow, nice work on the repower and upgrades to the 318.  I have a JB Sr. also and agree that it is a very handy attachment.
Chuck |
Duane Bartelt
Member
Username: Esnb74
NE
Registered: 4-2010
Post Number: 1
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 11:31 am: |
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New to this forum. Thought I would post a few pictures of my 318 that restored over the winter. It is working like brand new. Man I like this tractor. The H3 is so nice when using new JB Sr. as well.
I added an H3 valve and levers from a 420. Dual rear outlets (installed inside the frame), remote shut off for third valve located near the choke, 3rd set of outlets in left side frame, toolbox & handles from a 425, cup holders, 3 point hitch with square tube receiver attachment. I also picked up new style 48" replacement deck for it as well.
 |
Steve Hayes
Member
Username: Steveh
VA
Registered: 5-2004
Post Number: 1717
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 8:43 am: |
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We received confirmation that the Chip Foose custom 4020 will be in Fredericksburg, VA. June29. Anyone in the northern VA, or southern MD area that is interested in seeing it in person, this will be your only opportunity. See my post in upcoming events for more details.
http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/2559/92393.html?1279803597 |
Matt
Member
Username: Harbertm
IA
Registered: 12-2008
Post Number: 198
| | Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 7:38 am: |
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Bob, I want to second the Ruegg 3pt comments you just made. Bill shipped mine (last week) fast and I too noticed the the check didn't clear my bank until the day after I received the hitches.. I like dealing with a guy like that. Parts looked great, he always responded to my emails and called to follow up like he said he would. 5 Stars for Ruegg!!!!! |
Scott Graser
Member
Username: Telescott
Oh
Registered: 11-2008
Post Number: 315
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 7:13 pm: |
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Ken Shelby,
Thanks for the great link to the PM article. Here is another issue that talks a little about the 318. Start reading on page 74.
If the link comes up blank, click refresh (F5 key)
http://books.google.com/books?id=zeQDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA100&dq=john+deere+318&hl=en&ei=KYtHTIPnLsmxngfF1bTBBA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CEMQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=john%20deere%20318&f=false
Scott |
Bob Wallner
Member
Username: Bob_wallner
WI
Registered: 7-2006
Post Number: 113
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 6:40 pm: |
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Wanted to send a Big Thanks out to Bill Ruegg one of our site sponsors. We were in a bind for some 3pt arms, the lowers and upper links. Deere was going to have to order in. We called Ruegg and he mailed them out the same day. That was Wednesday last week, we got them on Friday morning. They look great, the fit is excellent, and the finish on the arms looks very good. I do not want to set a precedent for them, but they did all this shipping PRIOR to getting our check...did it all over the phone on a gentlemens word. They emailed Saturday to say thanks for the business and that they got the check. In my opinion...this was pretty outstanding! They did not ask me to write in, and I do not think it would go over well if everyone asked for their stuff to be sent prior to payment. But...the fact is this are a vendor and sponsor who really wants and goes after the business....and that is what I think. Thanks! Bob Wallner |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 4567
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 4:51 pm: |
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I suspect by shifting on the go they mean that you can change speed with the variator. Either that or they are talking about the new L110 (think Home Depot) or the 112L. Roger |
Jesse Whiteman
Member
Username: Jesse_whiteman
OH
Registered: 1-2010
Post Number: 3
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 4:33 pm: |
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u guys need to check ur manual. i believe it states that u can not shift on the go. |
stephen shiery
Member
Username: Sashiery
MO
Registered: 12-2006
Post Number: 1467
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 2:41 pm: |
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Shifting the 110/112 and 200-series on the go is one of those things that will work pretty nicely until you have that one catastrophic failure that takes out several gears at once. Kind of ruins a guy's day. |
Ken Shelby
Member
Username: Thunder_clouds
WA
Registered: 6-2007
Post Number: 137
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 1:13 pm: |
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Wow really? Hey, grind a pound for me Tom. LOL |
Tim Cummings
Member
Username: Torino
VA
Registered: 3-2006
Post Number: 670
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 1:05 pm: |
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I did not know that either. Can you shift a 200 series on the go? |
Tom Maynard
Member
Username: Tmaynard
CT
Registered: 9-2009
Post Number: 69
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 12:22 pm: |
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Leonard yes you can shift a 110 and 112 while moving without the clutch. I do all the time its very convenient. |
Leonard Stevenson
Member
Username: Leonards
IA
Registered: 5-2009
Post Number: 362
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 12:03 pm: |
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Did you notice that it says you can shift the 110 and 112 on the go without using the clutch? I have never shifted a 110 or 112 without stopping. Does this actually work?
Leonard |
Jason Rowland
Member
Username: Ripple_fx1
IN
Registered: 5-2009
Post Number: 174
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:52 am: |
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Tim C - a buddy with a benz sucks it out the dipstick tube with a $20 tool that probably cost him 10 times that. |
Tim Cummings
Member
Username: Torino
VA
Registered: 3-2006
Post Number: 669
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 9:05 am: |
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That Popular Science is really cool. I did not know you could do that on Google. The Bolens looks really big. That is also the first early Toro GT I have ever seen. |
Tom Sutton
Member
Username: Iax475
Ia
Registered: 5-2006
Post Number: 213
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 4:56 am: |
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Paul
Your 332 looks sharp with that tire combination !
It should be an excellent loader tractor !
What are the details on the rear tires ?
Rim width ?
Have a great day !
Tom |
Ken Shelby
Member
Username: Thunder_clouds
WA
Registered: 6-2007
Post Number: 135
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 9:19 pm: |
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Yeh, the 140 got my attention, but I could'nt stop checking the rest of the mag out too. It's funny how the bring back great memories. |
Paul Lorentz
Member
Username: Paulorentz
MN
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 47
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 9:05 pm: |
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The 332 just got new center and outer front axle bushings, bolt, front rims(455 wides) and 8x8.5x18 V61s. I also installed a grease zerk for the front axel pivot bolt. Woo hoo gettin' ready for the loader.
 |
Paul Lorentz
Member
Username: Paulorentz
MN
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 46
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 8:48 pm: |
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Tim-
Without seeing a pic its hard to make a suggestion. Could you drill a hole in the frame bigger than the plug and put a short pipe extension to get it out beyond the frame and a female plug on it? I did that on my air compressor because the drain plug was too close to put a bucket under it to drain it. |
Ryan Adams
Member
Username: Ae332
Ohio
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 16
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 7:10 pm: |
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Thanks Paul, I thought so, but wanted to double check and make sure. |
Tim Conway
Member
Username: Tconway
NJ
Registered: 7-2010
Post Number: 1
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 5:24 pm: |
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I re-powered my JD 318 with a Honda GX-270. The problem is changing the oil. The plug is on the bottom on the side about 1/8" of the the flat steel mounting. There is no way I can see to get at it to drain into a pan. Doing an oil change usually requires 1 roll of paper towels and a bath afterwards. There has to be a better way. Has anyone re-powered, had this problem and found a solution.
Thanks
Tim |
Mark Vanhutton
Member
Username: Mark_v
Va
Registered: 4-2009
Post Number: 91
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 5:19 pm: |
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Ken,
I can spend all day going through old magazines, if for no other reason than just to check out the car ads from those times.
How cool is that Chevelle SS396 ad? Kinda takes me back, and brings back some neat memories. Like being able to drive by just about any car dealer at the time and seeing that Super Sport, or a GTX, or a 442 sitting on the used car lot.
The other ads are way cool as well, but thats the kind of stuff I look for first when I run across old magazines, or in this case, web links.
Mark V. |
Mike Duwe
Member
Username: Mikeduwe
Wi
Registered: 10-2006
Post Number: 4403
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 4:09 pm: |
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Ken, THANKS for sharing, thats neat! |
Ken Shelby
Member
Username: Thunder_clouds
WA
Registered: 6-2007
Post Number: 134
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 10:42 am: |
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I was doing some surfing on the net today, and came across this link on google books for 1968 garden tractor in Popular Science magazine. Just thought some of you might get a kick out of it.
http://books.google.com/books?id=lSYDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA144&lpg=PA144&dq=deere+140+hydro+manufac&source=bl&ots=rMlOBCbKwi&sig=elr5-165BqqvSERzTZB1061I-zA&hl=en&ei=38FFTPfiHpK-sQOZuZzSAg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CCQQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q&f=false} |
Paul Lorentz
Member
Username: Paulorentz
MN
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 45
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 9:20 pm: |
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Ryan,
Yes, they are inter-changable.
Paul |
Ryan Adams
Member
Username: Ae332
Ohio
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 15
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 8:36 pm: |
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hey guys, will a 3 point hitch, and PTO from a deere 420, work on my 332? |
DAVID A CALKINS
Member
Username: David_a_calkins
WA
Registered: 10-2008
Post Number: 658
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 1:14 pm: |
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Tex drain the oil ,pull the pan ,remove rod cap .it has a mark at the split line ,David |
WILLIAM PARKER
Member
Username: Deere_hunter
OH
Registered: 7-2010
Post Number: 1
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 12:11 pm: |
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I am looking for a pattern for the lift rod for a 112 tractor for a 37 snow blower. I might buy one if someone has a extra but can make my own if I have a pattern. Thanks William |
Chuck Van Dusen
Member
Username: Chuckv
OR
Registered: 1-2007
Post Number: 3789
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 10:18 am: |
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Will,
I am a bit unclear what you mean about the rock shaft being required on a 3-pt. The Factory 3-pt and the Reugg after market one both use a rock shaft that functions just as the original non-3-pt tractor with the addition of the arms that lift the center and lower links of your hitch. The Deere part number for this 3-pt specific rock shaft is AM102584, and it or its equivalent must be on your tractor for the 3-pt to function.
When you say something "fell out" during adjustment, are you referring to the threaded rod/pin/nut mechanism that adjusts the travel limits of the rock shaft and operates in the curved slots of the rock shaft plates as shown in the PC1924? All of those pieces should be in place when the hitch is in use, and adjusted appropriately. I don't have a 3-pt on any of my tractors, but there are lots of members here who do and can help with this question as well...
You might want to start a thread with your questions in the Attachments section of the Restoration and Repair page with some pictures to help with the descriptions.
Chuck |
Will Lundgren
Member
Username: Classicjd318
NH
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 8
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 5:30 am: |
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Chuck
Is the rock shaft necessary as I have the 3 pt hitch? t control the mower deck height? I did this correction without the deck on. Or, does iAs I was loosening it, it fell out. No big deal as I can put it back. I appreciate yours, or any one elses input. |
JDF
Member
Username: Swampfox
CO
Registered: 11-2008
Post Number: 1451
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 11:11 pm: |
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Learn something new every day. I recently changed out the brakes on my 1998 Ford Ranger and the old brake hubs and rotors were laying beside the garage. I also recently pulled the brake drums off of my 1988 322 JDGT which was more of a PITA than I could have imagined.
Today I was about to load my old Ford brake drum parts and take them to work to deposit in the scrap metal bin, then it hit me that the bolt pattern looked awful similar to the bolt pattern on the tractor. I compared the Ford drum to the home made puller I had made and it's a perfect match, the bolt patterns are identical. I wish I had known that before I went through the trouble of making the steel plate puller. Long grade 8 bolts and a hydraulic jack with a Ford Ranger/Bronco brake drum or rotor would work as a puller. Or even shorter bolts and placing a steel piece across the center hole and pull it with the bolts. Anyone need one? Free for the shipping. |
Adam Vaught
Member
Username: Adam_214
MO
Registered: 10-2009
Post Number: 284
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 10:09 pm: |
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We had a discussion a few days back about mounting a chain hoist in my garage. Well it was hotter than the hubs of hell in my attic but I got it mounted. I think it will be ok up to 500lbs, probably more but I am only lifting lawn and garden stuff. (Probably famous last words) Here is a few pictures if anyone is wanting to mount one themselves. Adam
 |
Rick Goodwin
Member
Username: R_goodwin
MI
Registered: 12-2004
Post Number: 161
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 10:09 pm: |
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I hope somebody can help me out, I am looking for a wiring diagram for an electric lift. I know how to wire a DPDT switch but I would like to see one with the solenoid set up like the electric lifts on the 112s. I have done searches for it but can not come up with a clear picture of the way things are wired up. If anyone can help me out I would sure appreciate it. I really don't have anything that needs to be fixed but I have been racking my brain just to try to figure out how it works. Email is in profile.
Thanks Rick |
Steve Sunderman
Member
Username: Wyogreen
WY
Registered: 8-2009
Post Number: 139
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 8:37 pm: |
|
Jason, welcome to WFM. The 3 pt hitch is actuated by an hydraulic ram. Since you have an h3, hopefully you have the rear hydraulic outlets also. In which case you won't have to do anything other than pick up the correct 3 point hitch. If you don't have the rear hydraulic outlets, you could put in a rear outlet kit, or you could put longer lines on the 3 point to reach your front outlets. I don't have a picture of my 3 point handy right now, but there are numerous pictures on this site, just use the search function at the top of this page.
Steve |
Paul Lorentz
Member
Username: Paulorentz
MN
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 44
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 7:41 pm: |
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Steve and Neil,
I plan on using the tractor's hydro pump. With the augers you turn them on or off in either direction so I was going to use the hydro levers on the tractor to spin cw or ccw. (If you run into something hard you reverse the auger to get it unstuck. Soo, I should just need a hydraulic motor to connect the hydro lines to spin the auger.
Check out this video for an example. Obviously not this heavy duty. Only a 6" auger hole. They run these at about 150 rpm.
http://www.everythingattachments.com/McMillen-X975-Skid-Steer-Auger-Drive-Unit-2-Hex-p/mc-auger-drive-plan2hex-x975.htm
This is the auger bit:
http://www.getearthquake.com/foundations/store/shopdetail.asp?params=EA6F*0
This is what typically runs it:
http://www.getearthquake.com/foundations/store/shopdetail.asp?params=9800H*6 |
Kent "I have a bar tire fetish" Ortman
Moderator
Username: Kkortman112
IN
Registered: 1-2002
Post Number: 3484
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 7:02 pm: |
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Hi All. Well, my local show at Winamac is now over. I have a ton of pictures I need to get uploaded, will probably be all week working on that project. I did have a good friend snap this one of me this morning right before loading up.
Now, to go back to work tomorrow so I can get rested up from my vacation
Kent |
Aage Anderson
Member
Username: Verybadace
FL
Registered: 5-2008
Post Number: 7
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 5:54 pm: |
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Looking for help with I have a belt driven hydraulic pump from a 112. Like to mount on something else so was looking for any information on this pump. Like how fast should it run, where should the oil level be on it and where to fill it. Maybe even get a few pages from the owners manual on how to care for it. |
Jason Zinzow
Member
Username: Jasonzman
Wi
Registered: 7-2010
Post Number: 10
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 5:04 pm: |
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Thanks for looking, Newbie here to the hobby but lovin it so far. My question is this. I am restoring a 1970 140h3. I am going to either be putting a sleeve hitch or a 3-point hitch. I know the 3 point hitch is obviously better, I assume it is actuated by a hydraulic ram to go up and down. What do i need to do to install this other than purchasing the 3-point hitch, do i need to plumb some hydraulics, do i need to buy a ram also? Basically could someone explain to me roughly what I will need to do and what all i will need. pics would be a plus. Thank you for your time in advance.
jasonzinzow@charter.net |
Will Lundgren
Member
Username: Classicjd318
NH
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 7
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 3:49 pm: |
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Thanks for your suggest Craig. I'll see if I can make an adjustment. |
stephen shiery
Member
Username: Sashiery
MO
Registered: 12-2006
Post Number: 1444
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 3:41 pm: |
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Tex, that's a bummer. You could have the starter drive locked up or the PTO locked up, but no motor oil is a really bad sign.
The easiest way I can think of the make sure your engine is seized would be to pull off the PTO and try to turn the crank with a wrench. I think that would take a little less time than pulling off the tin over the head and removing the head. |
Chuck Van Dusen
Member
Username: Chuckv
OR
Registered: 1-2007
Post Number: 3788
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 3:34 pm: |
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Will,
The rock-shaft adjustment and stop which sets the mowing height also effect the range of movement on the 3-pt or any other rear attachment like the MCS and tillers for these machines.
Check to see if the threaded rod and cylinder stop is limiting your hitch travel...
Chuck |
Tex Smith
Member
Username: Texsmith
TX
Registered: 6-2010
Post Number: 4
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 2:15 pm: |
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well, i think my engine seized up on my 212. didnt realize it, must have lost oil last time i mowed, went to fire him up, ran for about 2 minutes, i noticed smoke, and cut it off, no oil. now it wont crank over. any suggestions on how i can test to confirm that its seized?
Thanks! |
Will Lundgren
Member
Username: Classicjd318
NH
Registered: 3-2010
Post Number: 6
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 1:50 pm: |
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Hey there everyone, I am back, Wowhoo. I traded my 318 for a IH/CC 149 with a Danco loader. POS. The guy luckily worked with me and allow me to return the tractor for my 318 back. Well he messed up the 3 pt hitch and mowing deck. The hitch only drops down about 2" when it shold lower much more. Any suggetions on corrections/adjustments I can make? Happy to be home. |
Wesley S Nigon
Member
Username: Nigonw
MN
Registered: 6-2010
Post Number: 8
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 11:29 am: |
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Thanks Phil and Stephen and those who emailed me. I guess there was uncertainty due to the limited info I could find on the web. I now have a couple of options and will be getting a bracket to house the rod. Thanks WFM. |
Randall Joslin
Member
Username: Rgjoslin
CO
Registered: 7-2010
Post Number: 1
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 10:15 am: |
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Hi:
This forum is great!
My Dad, located in Middlesex Vermont, has a 1972 or 1973 JD 112 tractor with a 47 inch mower deck. Deck has three blades. Lots of rust on that deck in the area where the blade hubs are located. He is having a lot of trouble keeping the deck operating.
Anyone know of a good repair procedure?
Through a friend, he may have found a company in the Mid-West that offers pre-drilled plates which apparently accept the existing hubs. Plates are welded to the deck?? Anyone familiar with this?
Source of a used deck?
Thanks in Advance
Randy |
Roger Henning
Member
Username: Woodpecker41
WI
Registered: 3-2002
Post Number: 4554
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 8:46 am: |
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Michael I wasn't trying to get you mad and was giving you advice from my perspective. I personally would be more interested in a 312 but that doesn't make it a better or worse tractor than a Patio would be. And my name is not rodger that is someone's last name. Roger |
Phil Peterson
Member
Username: Phil47
WI
Registered: 6-2003
Post Number: 598
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 8:10 am: |
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Wesley - Yes, get the bracket. You could post in the parts wanted forum. They should be readily available.
Or your could go to your dealer and order one. If they don't have one in stock, ask them to put one in their "stock order" and it will be delivered to the dealer with their normal shipment of parts and you won't have to pay freight. |
stephen shiery
Member
Username: Sashiery
MO
Registered: 12-2006
Post Number: 1443
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 8:00 am: |
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Wesley, if you are talking about the rod that rotates the chute, that bracket holds the control rod away from the tractor in a handy location and reduces rattling and vibration. Some of us here would be aghast at the idea of deviating from the original equipment configuration of attachments but others do quite a lot of adapting and modifying. It's your tractor, so you should do what suits you. |
Scott Graser
Member
Username: Telescott
Oh
Registered: 11-2008
Post Number: 314
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 11:19 pm: |
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Michael,
This is the Vintage Garden Tractor Forum, it is not topic specific. Welcome to WFM. It is a great place to share and get advice.
Roger was just pointing out the no "what’s it worth" rule and it is a sticky subject for some. The best way to get an idea what a tractor is worth would be to search the for sale section.
Take time to read the sections that interest you the most and don’t forget to post pictures of your tractors.
Once again welcome to WFM!!
Scott
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Wesley S Nigon
Member
Username: Nigonw
MN
Registered: 6-2010
Post Number: 7
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 10:52 pm: |
|
I have a 1988 318. I just bought a 49 snow thrower for it. Do I need the control chute rod bracket, or can I just mount it to the side panel. |
michael slocum
Member
Username: Mrdeere
ny
Registered: 7-2010
Post Number: 2
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 10:31 pm: |
|
well sorry for going against your topic i am only seeking advice sorry rodger. |
stewart mann
Member
Username: Mann56
Al
Registered: 6-2009
Post Number: 61
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 8:51 pm: |
|
Thanks Aj,I thought it was something like 500lbs. |
