Vintage John Deere Garden Tractor For...

Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Archive through December 20, 2012 Russell Hanson 60  1  12-20-12  4:32 pm Archive through December 25, 2012 Jim Briney 60  1  12-25-12  9:24 pm Archive through January 01, 2013 JRL 60  1  1-01-13  6:49 am Archive through January 06, 2013 Don Bradenbaugh 60  1  1-06-13  7:51 pm Archive through January 12, 2013 Steven Lewis Nichols 60  1  1-12-13  1:14 am Archive through January 20, 2013 Terry Reed 60  1  1-20-13  8:21 am Archive through January 27, 2013 Mike Duwe 60  1  1-27-13  5:34 pm Archive through February 06, 2013 Mike Reid 60  1  2-06-13  8:56 pm Archive through February 13, 2013 Terry Reed 60  1  2-13-13  6:02 am Archive through February 18, 2013 matt mills 60  1  2-18-13  6:50 pm   Closed: New threads not accepted on this page

Author Message   Dave Deagle Member Username: Canadiansinn SK. Registered: 2-2011 Post Number: 29 Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 7:02 pm:        Roger Henning thank you this all helps greatly I also read your old post.I have hydraulic lift but still think I will want to add an alternator to it so this will be great thanks again.   Steven Abel Member Username: Sabo461 NJ Registered: 1-2003 Post Number: 766 Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 6:32 pm:        We are trying to get as many 1963 110's to attend the CELEBRATE 50 Years of John Deere Lawn & Garden Tractors 50 years of Mowing in Horicon, Wisconsin on July 26 - 28. If anyone knows of a owner of one of the 1,000 1963's out there that does not know about this show please try to make them aware of it. If you have one and are attending please call Scott Wooldridge 309-368-9580 so he can add you to the list. If you know of a 63 110 that is displayed in a dealership and you want me or Scott to call and invite the tractor to the show please let either of us know so we can make that happen. Of course all years and model John Deere L & G tractors are invited ! Check out upcoming events here on WFM for the all info for the show or look them up on Facebook.   JRL Member Username: Jlang Registered: 1-2002 Post Number: 6300 Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 6:29 pm:        YEAH! Finally made some good progress today!   Roger Henning Member Username: Woodpecker41 WI Registered: 3-2002 Post Number: 8223 Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 7:52 am:        Dave Deagle on a 200 series tractor you have 15 amps to work with and it takes about 6 to 8 to run the tractor. It depends if you have an electric PTO or not. That leaves you 7 amps or 84 watts to work with. If you keep the amp or watt load under that you should be okay. You could do part of that by using LED bulbs as they take less current draw. I will include some pictures of my old 112 that I wanted more current available and added a GM 10SI 65 amp alternator to. This allowed me with an inverter to run an electric chain saw in the woods for clean up duties. Roger   JRL Member Username: Jlang Registered: 1-2002 Post Number: 6299 Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 7:23 am:        Some good news on my 420 repower project. I got the lost bolt out of the blower housing! Here is how I did it Removed the silver colored Rectifier-Regulator for access to inside blower housing to retrieve lost bolt.   Roy Templeton Member Username: Rtempleton IL Registered: 4-2011 Post Number: 134 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 8:41 pm:        Woohoo! Hopefully will be getting some snow on Thursday, to bad it won't last long! Hopefully I will get some seat time on the 318 after work on Thursday.   Dave Deagle Member Username: Canadiansinn SK. Registered: 2-2011 Post Number: 28 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 7:21 pm:        Thanks Dave for the quick answer. I brag to people about how helpful and fast the people are on this site thanks again   Dave Dufoe Member Username: Dd57chevy IA Registered: 8-2009 Post Number: 529 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 7:13 pm:        Dave , if you go to the top of this page you will find a "Search " button in the yellow band . Press it & type "alternator " & indicate 365 days . You will find several helpful threads .   Dave Deagle Member Username: Canadiansinn SK. Registered: 2-2011 Post Number: 27 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 7:03 pm:        Hi Guys was hoping someone could answer a question for me please. I have a 1977 214 and am building a winter cab for it, I want to add a couple of lights, a cigarette light plug in heater and a fan. What do I have to do to upgrade the stock charging system to handle the extra load ?   Cliff Harms Member Username: Charms MB Registered: 5-2005 Post Number: 1347 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 5:55 pm:        Steven, the specs for some things are available on JDparts. This from there for the 54 lift cylinder: English Metric Specification Weight 5.73 LBS 2.60 Kg Bore Diameter 2.500 IN Rod Diameter 1.000 IN Stroke 4.000 IN Closed Length 8.000 IN End Type-Rod & Cap 0101 Rod End Size 0.516 IN Cap End Size 0.516 IN Working Pressure 1,999.999 PSI Finish K Note   Greg Van Hal Member Username: Gskc Mn Registered: 12-2005 Post Number: 122 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 5:45 pm:        A friend of mine in NW Iowa said that John Deere belts were made close to where he lives and he could go to the local auto supply and get JD belts I need. All had to do was send him the belt numbers. I didn't know you could buy JD belt other than at the dealer. Greg   Steven Lewis Nichols Member Username: Threeeighteen IL Registered: 8-2012 Post Number: 173 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 11:44 am:        Can somebody tell me what the dimensions of the hydraulic cylinders which power the 4-way snow blades are from pin to pin in fully extended and fully contracted positions? Thanks   Mike Duwe Member Username: Mikeduwe Wi Registered: 10-2006 Post Number: 7593 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 10:31 am:        Yes I'm talking a spacer that butts up against the shoulder on the crank itself without it when you tighten the big bolt at the end of the crank you will force the clutch into its magnetic coil and you will destroy the coil. I made my own spacer for my 420 repower but deformed it by using an impact on the center bolt and the rubbing of the clutch melted the coil potting. Mmm burnt electronics smell! Bought a spacer from Pruitt and tightened the bolt with a wrench. Depending on your closure plate on the engine you may or may not need spacers for the clutches 4 mounting bolts. There are a few different machinings and that may affect the above mentioned crank spacers thickness as well. Diode we to protect my fuel injected engines computer from spikes. Since you have a 27 hp Kohler which has the DSAI digital spark system I would recommend adding a diode   JRL Member Username: Jlang Registered: 1-2002 Post Number: 6297 Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 6:15 am:        Matt Mills, You need some weight on the rear of the tractor in addition to the tiller. e Otherwise the tiller can push the tractor instead of tilling the soil. I don't add fluid to my garden tractor tires, but some have it as the PO added it. You need some good wieghts on the front end when tilling too.   Chuck Van Dusen Member Username: Chuckv OR Registered: 1-2007 Post Number: 6383 Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 9:16 pm:        John, Deere did not use any diode in the PTO wiring of the 420 for either the front or the back. Diode "snubbers" are often used across switched coils to limit voltage spikes that might harm semiconductor devices that are doing the switching, but all power to the PTO windings on the 420 are controlled by relays and no not need added diodes. NOTE: there are diodes internal to the TDCM which protect its transistors that control relay coils in that assembly, but that is another story. The potential damage that Mike D is cautioning against is *mechanical* where the PTO rotor drags against the winding and damages the assembly by friction. Having the correct spacer sets the clearances as Ogura intended them to be inside the PTO itself... Chuck   Michael Nelson Member Username: Highwayman Maryland Registered: 4-2009 Post Number: 868 Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 9:06 pm:        Try using the magnet to move it in the blower housing. If its a strong enough magnet you could move it up and out the way it fell in. Michael   Jeff Kerr Member Username: Blazer PA Registered: 9-2006 Post Number: 452 Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 8:21 pm:        John as a last resort try using an air hose and blow gun to move it around in the housing and possibly then get it with the magnet. Never know.   RLC Member Username: Hitefox1 Pa Registered: 12-2006 Post Number: 279 Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 7:45 pm:        JRL Can you use a four fingered flex tool for the retrieval? Or a stick with some thing sticky on the end of the stick. You probably do not have much room to work with. Downfall of magnet, it sticks to everything else nearby. Just a thought, before you go thru all the work you already have done. Good luck, Bob   matt mills Member Username: Diamondmfarms in Registered: 2-2013 Post Number: 3 Posted on Monday, February 18, 2013 - 6:54 pm:        Thanks for the advice terry I will head down to jd dealer tommorow I have always farmed with jd tractors but the garden tractors are my new obsession so I appreciate all the help I can get I bought a 317 today with the tiller and I couldn't be happier is there any big advantage to fluid filling the rear tires for tilling?

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